Tuesday, September 14, 2004
Mike at the beach
And look upon it we did. It seemed like the whole beach was focused on the medium swells. Some people had paperbacks but no one read. I felt like the surf needed watching like a loose jungle cat, and even more so when I went swimming. It had been exactly 30 years since I had felt Hawaiian surf, and I had forgotten how much I loved it. Needed it. I felt like a goldfish back in his bowl, like part of an organism.
So this is a picture of my first real swim since I was 9 years old. The sea ended up getting us really good, stealing up just enough to trash our entire bamboo mats/towels/clothing/purses/cameras/magazines/shoes collection, with the exception of my camera bag, which I was able to snatch and run off with right as the rogue wave hit us. Should have taken a picture of the carnage, but no one but me thought it was funny.